What Are Slinger Trucks?

Slinger trucks, sometimes called stone slingers, are specialized vehicles equipped with a large box, a mechanical arm and a high-speed conveyor belt. This setup allows slinger trucks to transport and precisely “sling” aggregate materials like stone, compost, or sand with remarkable accuracy. 

Slinger trucks can even efficiently place materials in hard to reach areas. With a slinger truck, your construction project or landscaping endeavor could have efficient material placement in a fraction of the time.

How Do Slinger Trucks Work?

The heart of a slinger truck’s functionality is its high-speed conveyor belt system. The mechanical arm, controlled by one of our experienced and highly trained operators, adjusts angles and speed to place materials up to 70 feet away from the back of the truck with pinpoint accuracy.

Our precise placement means less material spillage and less waste. This enhanced efficiency greatly reduces the need for manual material handling. (Your team will appreciate less time spent moving aggregate materials with backhoes and shovels.)

Using a stone slinger for material placement greatly increases customer satisfaction, because you can stay on or ahead of schedule, can increase cost savings and add time back into your schedule. 

What Are Slinger Trucks Used For?

Slinger trucks can be used for a variety of applications in both construction and landscaping.

• Construction: A slinger truck is ideal for filling foundations, crawlspaces, and driveways with materials like pea-stone and crushed concrete. Slinger trucks can also be used for pool and seawall backfills or even creating foundation drainage for new property development. 
• Landscaping: Slinger trucks are perfect for distributing topsoil, compost, and mulch across large areas. We often use blower trucks as well for this type of material placement.
• Municipalities: A stone slinger can also provide a cost effective way to prepare a playground or park. We can use slinger trucks to fill a sand volleyball court, add playground sand, or even place mulch.

What Is a Slinger Truck’s Capacity?

Our slinger trucks can handle various materials up to two-and-a-half inches in size. On average, one slinger truck can hold between 15-18 yards of material, making them the perfect equipment for large-scale projects.

3 Ways Slinger Trucks Enhance Efficiency

1. Shorter Project Timelines: Your landscaping and construction projects can get done in a fraction of the time. We can deliver and place your materials faster than a team could by hand. That means we can make your construction process shorter and your clients happier.
2. Precise Material Placement: Nothing is more frustrating than finishing a big material placement job and then having to clean up the stray bits of material. With our team’s precision, the stone slinger can place your gravel, crushed concrete, or other aggregate material exactly where it is supposed to go. That means you’ll have minimal material waste, less mess and no cleanup time (because we do that part too).
3. Less Manual Labor: When our stone slingers are taking care of the time-consuming material placement, you are able to use your team for more profitable tasks. No more overtime wasted on sand and stone placement. With our slinger trucks, your project timeline will be more predictable and more cost effective.

Who Has Slinger Trucks in the Midwest?

In the Midwest, Superior Groundcover has one of the largest fleets of slinger and blower trucks. We offer services in Michigan, Indiana, and across the midwest. Our slinger trucks can be used to install a large range of materials, including:

• Pea-stone
• Crushed concrete
• Topsoil
• Compost
• Fill sand
• Beach sand

Here at Superior Groundcover, our extensive fleet of blower and slinger trucks coupled with our experienced team make us a preferred partner for more efficient construction and landscaping material placement.

If you are tired of wasting time, money, and manpower with manual material placement, get an estimate from Superior Groundcover today to make your next landscape or construction project more predictable and profitable.

The post How Slinger Trucks Enhance Efficiency for Construction and Landscaping Companies appeared first on Superior Groundcover.

What is Damp Proofing?

Damp proofing external walls below ground level prevents moisture from entering your home’s foundation or basement. It is common to use a mixture that typically contains either tar or asphalt and applies to the foundation’s outside walls. The mixture will eventually bond to the foundation walls and form a seal, preventing any moisture from entering the home.

Typically, any home built after the 1950s will already have damp proofing installed. However, it often begins to fail after several years and will need to be redone. Therefore, homeowners need to know the basics of damp proofing so they can prepare.

How is Damp Proofing Different from Waterproofing?

Damp proofing Vs. Waterproofing

Although these two methods may seem similar, there are differences in the overall process. When considering the draining techniques used, both damp proofing and waterproofing prevent moisture from damaging your home’s foundation. However, the materials, strategy, and end goals are very different.

Damp proofing keeps out any soil moisture from the ground, while waterproofing an outside wall is designed to prevent liquids and soil moisture from entering the home and damaging the foundation. According to the International Residential Code (IRC), any concrete must be damp proofed to ensure the foundation’s integrity and only waterproofed if the structure resides on a high water table or other conditions that could cause moisture.

What Are the Different Damp Proofing Methods?

Membrane Walls or Courses

Membranes are one of the best ways to damp proof a wall and include placing a water repellent membrane or damp proof course between the foundation susceptible to soil moisture and the foundation adjacent to the trouble area or an outside basement wall membrane.

The membrane or damp proof course is applied to the troubled area of the foundation either horizontally or vertically, depending on the individual need. You can apply it to either a crawlspace or in a basement, which is also known as tanking. 

Is There a Difference Between a Membrane and Damp Proof Course?

A damp proof course, or DPC, is often placed to prevent water from rising. This is usually a row of slates, plastic, or adhesive to prevent moisture from reaching the basement or crawlspace floor.

In contrast, damp proof membranes are placed below the floor or around the basement walls or crawlspace walls and used for damp proofing block walls. The damp proof membrane is often found between the insulation and drywall of the structure, preventing any moisture from harming the foundation.

In short, a damp proof course is often put in place to prevent moisture from entering a certain area, while a damp proof membrane protects the entire foundation in general. 

Spray on Substance for Walls

The spray-on substance method is great for brick and stone walls, as it creates an additional damp proof coating, protecting against standing moisture. It is important to note that this method is ineffective for moisture that is under pressure. 

The substance sprayed in the pores of the wall is various water repellent agents that prevent the foundation from being penetrated by any water. However, you must be mindful of the chemicals used and ensure the substance is applied correctly.

What Is Sprayed?

The damp-proof spray for walls includes calcium, aluminum oleate, sodium, potassium silicates, aluminum, zinc sulfates, and magnesium sulfates. These are metallic substances and are proven to repel water. 

Foundation Tar

Foundation tar is often used for damp proofing the outside of a foundation wall and forms a damp proof coating, creating an impermeable coating. You use foundation tar in uninhabitable places, such as a crawlspace, as it can add a dark appearance to the foundation. 

Bituminous Damp Proofing

Bituminous foundation damp proofing is another way to maintain the integrity of your home’s foundation. This includes any substance, including bitumen or asphalt, which is extremely sticky and moisture repellent. It is a popular damp proofing method due to its adhesive properties, as it can easily stick to any foundation. 

Is Damp Proofing Done on the Inside or Outside of the Home?

Damp Proofing Exterior Walls or Foundation

You can do damp proofing on either the inside or outside of the foundation. It is much easier and effective to damp proof the foundation from the outside, as it allows you to stop the moisture before it reaches the basement floor or crawlspace floor.

If damp proofing from the outside, you must ensure any damage already present inside of the foundation wall is repaired. 

What Methods Are Used on the Exterior?

Some popular methods of damp proofing from the outside include a damp proof course. This is the best method because it forms an impenetrable barrier and prevents any moisture from reaching the floor of your home.

Damp Proofing Interior Basement Walls

Damp proofing the interior basement walls is effective as it seals up any cracks or faults in the foundation that could be letting in water. It then prevents any moisture from reaching the basement floor. 

Which Methods Are Used for Interior?

Often, you can use the membrane and tar method for the interior. This is mainly due to their effectiveness in plugging up any cracks that could compromise the foundation and their ability to stick to various surfaces.

When is Damp Proofing Usually Done?

Because various forms of damp proofing are only temporary, it may need to be done again in several years. Damp proofing is widely popular in drier climates, as there is a lack of moisture in the soil. Therefore, damp proofing would be sufficient.

That said, you should consider waterproofing for cooler climates and those who live on high water tables. 

During Construction

When building a new home, it will be damp proofed by the builder. Damp proofing during construction will prevent any structural damage for several years. 

After Past Damp Proofing has Failed

Even on new construction, after several years, the damp proofing will begin to fail. Many handy homeowners take the DIY approach, as it is a rather easy process to master.

Who Does Damp Proofing?

Contractors, Builders, and Foundation Specialists

Contractors and builders both do damp proofing, as builders damp proof new construction, and contractors often damp proof when it begins to fail. Because damp proofing is critical to the foundation of your home, many homeowners prefer to hire a licensed contractor for their damp proofing and waterproofing needs rather than take a DIY approach.

Can It Be DIY?

Because damp proofing is a relatively easy task, many homeowners will damp proof their homes themselves. There are many damp proof mixes and kits available for this very purpose. So, if you’re a handyman, this may be the most practical approach.

How Often Will a Home Need to be Damp Proofed?

Because damp proofing is only temporary, your home will likely need to be damp proofed every 20-25 years, as the adhesive materials will eventually wear down and become ineffective. 

How Much Does Damp Proofing Cost?

What Are the Cost Factors?

Square Footage

The square footage of your home is one of the most significant aspects that affect cost. The larger the perimeter of your foundation, the more expensive it will be due to material cost and labor.

Existing Damage

If you have existing damage on the foundation, this would have to be repaired before damp proofing, placing a significant increase on the price tag.

Methods Chosen

Since there are various methods used, the one chosen affects the price. For example, a membrane often costs more than the spray substance method. 

Timing

Whether the structure already exists or if it is a new construction could impact the price. Often, it is more costly to damp proof an existing structure due to the risk posed by existing damage that you must repair.

Contact Superior Groundcover today to learn more about damp proofing, or to get a quote on your project. 

The post Basement & Foundation Damp Proofing 101 appeared first on Superior Groundcover.

Superior Groundcover subcontracted on this crawl space encapsulation project with a local cement contractor who was tasked with installing a vapor barrier over the stone that Superior brought to site to infill the crawl space, and then cap it with concrete. There was also a crock and tile installed in case the water rose to an unsafe level.

The site was an older cabin on Rainbow Lake, with mold and dampness present due to the ground water levels. Wood in the cabin had been rotting and drywall was sweating. The guts & bones of the cabin were still in great shape, and the cabin was well worth saving from this water damage and mold growth.

The solution was first to fill the crawl space with pea stone, in addition to installed tile and a sump pump. Next, the local contractor installed the vapor barrier and poured concrete.

Superior Groundcover was in charge of material placement (pea stone, in this case). We filled a space that was 35’ L x 20’ W and approximately 48” thick. We placed 120 yards in one day using 1 blower truck, 2 stone slingers, and 5 workers. We started at 8 AM and had the project completed by 4 PM the same day.

Learn more about our crawl space encapsulation services, what is involved in crawl space encapsulation, or get a project quote today. 

The post Crawl Space Encapsulation Project in Pennington, MI appeared first on Superior Groundcover.

Your crawl space is the perfect environment for mold, pests, and water damage. Crawl space encapsulation uses thick, white, polyethylene plastic to seal your crawl space from moisture.

Who Needs It?

Anyone with a crawl space can benefit from crawl space encapsulation. However, there are a few factors that might make you a better candidate for sealing your crawl space than someone else:

• Humid climate: Too much moisture in your crawl space can lead to mold and other types of damage. If you regularly battle humid summers, encapsulating your crawl space may be a good idea.
• Extreme temperatures: No one likes dealing with blazing heat or below-freezing temperatures. Unfortunately, heating or cooling your home in extreme temperatures can be costly. Encapsulating your crawl space actually insulates it and can help you save on your energy bill.
• Infestation: You may already be dealing with a mold infestation or some critters who have made your crawl space their home. After your crawl space has been cleaned and cleared out, encapsulate it to prevent another infestation from happening again.

Advantages vs. Disadvantages

There are many benefits to encapsulation, including:

• Preventing mold, rotting wood, and other moisture-related damages
• Protecting the integrity of your foundation and your floors
• Preventing animal, rodent, or insect infestations
• Decreasing your energy bill
• Improving the quality of air in your home

Challenges with encapsulation include:

• Paying for what can sometimes be an expensive service
• Working within a small, cramped area if you choose to do it yourself
• Ensuring the work is done correctly to avoid other problems (e.g., accidentally making a termite inspection impossible)

How to Properly Encapsulate a Crawl Space

Whether you choose to hire a professional or try a DIY approach, the process of crawl space encapsulation is as follows:

• Assess: First, evaluate your crawl space as-is. Depending on how often you check your crawl space, you may find some unpleasant surprises: animals (alive or dead), insects, rusted junk from previous owners, rotting wood, termite damage, leaky pipes, or something else. Remember to call in a professional if you encounter standing water—you don’t want to risk electrocution.
• Clean: Now it’s time to remove all of the fun surprises you found. Clean your crawl space of anything that doesn’t belong there. Make sure to also remove sharp debris to create a nice, flat surface.
• Fix: During your initial assessment, you may have discovered plumbing or foundation problems. Make sure to fix these issues before sealing your crawl space. It’s more difficult to fix these problems after your crawl space has been sealed than before.
• Measure: Once your crawl space is ready for encapsulation, measure the areas you plan on covering. Cut your sheets of polyethylene plastic to fit your crawl space.
• Seal: Now you can encapsulate your crawl space. Start with the walls first, and make sure to overlap the sheets of plastic to create a tight seal. Seal awkward shapes like pipes, pillars, and vents. Then, install the plastic vapor barrier on the floor.
• Dehumidify: After encapsulation, you will need to regulate the humidity within your crawl space. Install a dehumidifier to ensure that the moisture in your crawl space is always at an acceptable level.

Alternatives to Encapsulation

If you want to try to decrease the moisture in your crawl space, there are other alternative solutions beyond encapsulation. 

Crawl Space Encapsulation vs. Waterproofing

Waterproofing can occur both inside and outside of your crawl space. Exterior waterproofing can consist of both an adequate drainage system as well as the installation of a moisture barrier around the foundation. Interior waterproofing encompasses crawl space encapsulation but may also include the installation of a sump pump.

In general, you can always encapsulate your crawl space and engage in other waterproofing measures as well. The main disadvantage of exterior or interior waterproofing vs. crawl space encapsulation is that it is more expensive.

Crawl Space Encapsulation vs. Spray Foam

Spray foam used in a crawl space can seal it from both air and moisture as well as provide insulation. It can be used alongside the plastic sheets of encapsulation, or you can use it on its own.

Spray foam isn’t the most environmentally-friendly choice to protect your crawl space. It’s also not the safest option for DIYers—you’ll need personal protective equipment (PPE) to stay safe during installation.

Crawl Space Encapsulation vs. Insulation

Crawl space insulation and crawl space encapsulation may sound similar, but they have slight differences. 

The goal of crawl space insulation is to keep your crawl space warm. The focus is on decreasing your energy bill. 

The goal of crawl space encapsulation, on the other hand, is to keep your crawl space dry. The focus is on eliminating water and moisture that may lead to other kinds of damage.

If you live in a dry climate, crawl space insulation may be sufficient. If you live in an area that experiences regular rain or snow melt, however, then encapsulation is probably the way to go.

How Much Does Crawl Space Encapsulation Cost?

The cost of encapsulating your crawl space depends on a number of factors, including:

• Any current problems in your crawl space that need to be solved before encapsulation (e.g., leaks, mold, pests, foundation cracks)
• The size of your crawl space
• Whether you hire a team of professionals or do the job yourself
• Whether or not you choose to install a dehumidifier
• The quality of materials used

Our team of experts can assess your crawl space and give you an idea of how much it would cost to encapsulate it. 

Generally speaking, crawl space encapsulation costs thousands of dollars—anywhere from $5,000 to $15,000, depending on the job. However, keep in mind that you can expect your investment to protect your crawl space for up to 20 years.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Does Crawl Space Encapsulation Add Value to Your Home?

Yes. Sealing your crawl space decreases your energy bill, better regulates the temperature in your home, increases your air quality, and prevents pest and mold infestations—all attractive features to prospective buyers.

Can You Encapsulate a Crawl Space in a Flood Zone?

A traditional encapsulation is not recommended in a flood zone. Crawl spaces that are prone to flooding need to allow water to flow through them to prevent more severe damage. Encapsulation results in a tight seal that would actually put your crawl space at greater risk during a flood since the water wouldn’t be able to flow through it.

Can I Qualify for a Tax Credit for Crawl Space Encapsulation?

Potentially! There are tax credits available for people who make their homes more energy efficient. Since sealing your crawl space increases your home’s energy efficiency, you may be able to qualify for a tax credit. Speak with an accountant to determine if you qualify.

The post Everything You Need to Know About Crawl Space Encapsulation appeared first on Superior Groundcover.

Home Foundation Drainage: What Can Go Wrong

Water Damage Can Decrease Home Value

Water damage is the fastest way to destroy a home’s value. Addressing simple plumbing issues thoroughly is only a minor way to protect the home from water damage. More threatening is damage caused by improper foundation drainage.

A flooded basement, for example, can lead to serious structural damage to the home’s foundation. Poor foundation drainage can also cause the soil around the basement to move when saturated, pushing and pulling at the foundation, and eventually causing cracks. 

These sources of damage are not the end of the line, unfortunately. Once water infiltrates, mold is likely to set in and thrive without a proper basement foundation drainage system.

Mold Contamination and Home Value

Even after water damage is attended to, mold can linger. Poor foundation drainage leads to standing water and cracks and leaks, which create the perfect mold environment.

The sooner foundation drainage issues are solved, the better the chance none of these issues will affect the homebuyer or the value of the home. Because water damage and mold must be disclosed to potential buyers, a home with these issues is unlikely to sell for its full value. If mold is found after sale, the buyer can sue.

Home Foundation Drainage Solutions

Dampproofing versus Waterproofing Foundation Walls

Waterproofing and dampproofing are two different methods of home foundation drainage solutions meant to protect a home’s foundation from water damage. Dampproofing works to keep moisture from the soil out of the home and away from its walls. Waterproofing keeps out not only moisture from the soil, but also liquid water.

Traditionally, dampproofing has been the standard method of protecting a home from water for a long time. It’s in accordance with the International Residential Code in certain circumstances according to Section R406. Further, according to this code, waterproofing is only required in areas that have serious soil-water conditions or a higher water table.

If you’re in an area where either method is permissible, how do you choose which is best? First, let’s break down both methods.

Dampproofing 101

Standard dampproofing consists of an asphalt-based coating applies to the outside of the wall, usually using a sprayer. Dampproofing is typically around 10 mils thick. It is recommended less often than waterproofing, however, it is an effective method for protecting a home against damage caused by water in the soil.

However, dampproofing has its own set of disadvantages. One of these disadvantages is that you can’t repair cracks and other damage from improper backfill. In partnership with a well-installed foundation drainage system — which we discuss in detail here — dampproofing can get the job done.

Waterproofing 101

While dampproofing is a solution, it won’t go the extra mile. Dampproofing is intended to slow the progress of water in the soil, however, it will still allow water to push against the foundation walls. Waterproofing is a more precise method.

With waterproofing materials, you can bridge developing cracks as they are more flexible than dampproofing materials. They can also withstand hydrostatic pressure — pressure exerted by a fluid at equilibrium at a given point within the fluid, due to gravity. It’s also applied much thicker (at least 40 mils) than dampproofing material.

Foundation waterproofing — when done properly — should be able to prevent water vapor from surrounding soil from moving through concrete. It should also stand up to hydrostatic pressure where dampproofing cannot. Lastly, it should be able to cover any cracks in the concrete.

In areas of higher water tables or heavy rain, waterproofing is the way to go. Water entering the soil will move toward the foundation. Hydrostatic pressure from the collecting water can force water through concrete, a porous material, and into basements. 

Choosing a Method:

When deciding between dampproofing and waterproofing, there are several variables to consider. 

1. Soil conditions and types
2. Water table level
3. Foundation Drainage System
4. Subgrade Depth
5. Moisture toleration
6. Cost

Waterproofing is more expensive than dampproofing, but depending on the circumstances, may be the necessary choice.

Damp-proofing and Waterproofing Preparation Requirements

Both methods require some surface preparation. Proper backfill is absolutely necessary to avoid membrane damage after the application is done, and to provide necessary drainage where possible.

Properly Divert Runoff Away From Foundation Drainage System

Foundation Drainage Systems work to reroute water from the home through the use of perforated pipe drains placed underground on a slight slope. However, these drains can clog and become overloaded over time. A homeowner will notice signs like a very humid basement, efflorescence, and leaks when a foundation drainage system is becoming ineffective. 

There are many ways to help divert water away from the foundation drainage system you put in place. The first is through strategic landscaping. Creating things like a berm — a hill covered with grass or a garden — are easy tricks that can support your home foundation drainage system. You can also implement a rain garden or a creek bed.

Install a Rain Gutter System

Runoff from a roof can also cause foundation damage. When water runs off of the roof, it can pool in the yard, creating standing water. A rain gutter system including a well-placed downspout can help carry rainwater away from the house. Extending your downspout can be even more beneficial.

Negative Slope

A surefire way to cause a foundation drainage system to fail and wreak havoc on a foundation is to create an improper, or negative slope. When creating your foundation drainage system, you have to make sure that the drain tile is running at a negative slope in order to carry water away, not toward the home. We teach you how to do this here.

Already have a negative slope issue with your landscaping? Poorly planned plant and flower beds can disrupt natural water flow. There are ways to help temporarily curb the issue using landscaping. 

Negative Slope Solution

First, remove all landscaping around the home where pooling is occurring. Next, remove all grass at least 10 feet away from the house. After you’ve done this, fill the exposed area with more soil in order to raise the grade.

Add at least 8 inches of soil in order to lift the landscaping bed to a level that will force water in the other direction. Make sure to pack the soil down to a height of around 6 inches higher than it was previously.

Continue to do this further out from the house, creating a slope. Your new slope should go drop the 6 inches in the 10 feet of distance from the house. Use a level to check that your slope is correct. Replant your landscaping.

All of these methods help support your foundation drainage system and avoid overloading them. 

Landscape Planning for Optimal Drainage

Landscape planning is a must for residential foundation drainage systems. Tree roots are seeking nutrient-rich water, so of course they head straight for your drainage system. This often results in clogging and damage, preventing your drain from working properly. 

If you have not yet installed your drainage system, make sure to clear the underground route of nearby trees and plants. If your system is already in place and facing root issues, there are products that can treat the issue. These products will require frequent application to keep the roots from invading. It’s best to address the issue ahead of time.

Tree roots can also pull moisture from the soil — sometimes too much! This can cause settling and foundation cracks. It’s best to consult a professional to make sure your landscaping is done strategically with foundation drainage in mind.

If you decide to DIY your landscaping, you can use the US Department of Housing and Urban Development  guidebooks for planting trees as a reference.

Home Foundation Drainage Solutions as well as Waterproofing and Damp-proofing are integral parts of successfully building a home.

It can be easy to try and save money and time by cutting corners on your drainage solutions when building a house, however, this is much like buying cheap tires for a nice vehicle. Over time, the damage and hassle caused by the poor solution will cost much more than just doing it right the first time and can cause damage to the real investment. 

Have a project coming up and want a professional team to install a foundation drainage system? Call Superior Groundcover. We’re ready to help!

The post Residential And Home Foundation Drainage Solutions appeared first on Superior Groundcover.

Installing a foundation drainage system on your own can be extremely difficult, time-consuming, and occasionally dangerous. Make sure you’re prepared for the challenge or call in the professionals to take care of it for you.

What type of foundation drainage solution is required?

Before considering how to install a foundation drainage system, you must first consider which type of drainage solution you’ll need. What kind of water issues are you facing? What type of soil do you have in and around your property? Will an exterior drainage system be possible? What hazards are buried around your property (power lines, gas lines, sewage)?

Surface water or standing water can ruin your landscaping. It can also seep into your basement leading to mold and more. To address surface water issues, you could install a french drain. A french drain is made up of a perforated plastic pipe, a permeable mesh sock, and gravel. 

If you have a runoff problem on your property, you’ll not only need to address the extra water but possible erosion issues as well. Superior Groundcover’s team of erosion control experts can help find the right solution.

Know what the regulations are in your area.

Each state, city, or county may have its own laws surrounding foundation drainage that must inform what type of drainage system you install and where you install it. You can check with your county or state to find documents explaining what is and isn’t legal. Your drainage system may affect neighboring properties and therefore, must be built in accordance with the law. Some more general requirements can be found in the following links:

The International Residential Code (IRC), in Section R405.1,

OSHA Technical Manual; Section V: Chapter 2 Excavations: Hazard Recognition in Trenching and Shoring

What are the excavation requirements?

First, make sure your landscaping is done at the proper slope. A slope that is too steep will cause erosion issues. A flat yard will lead to standing water. A proper slope is 1 foot in rise (the difference between the highest and lowest points in the slope) per 50 feet of run (the horizontal length of the slope). This is ideal for drainage.

To install an exterior french drain, you’ll need to do some digging — digging up most of your yard, unfortunately! During this step, make sure to avoid any buried power lines, gas lines, or sewage. You’ll have to dig a trench around the perimeter of your footing. This trench must be at least two feet wide and six feet deep. For a slab-on-grade home, the trench can be as shallow as two feet.

Exterior drains can get clogged in a few years and require you to redo this project. In order to make sure this doesn’t happen, you’ll have to place a permeable mesh sock over the drain pipe. Your other option is to install an interior drain. This requires breaking up your basement floor, installing the drainage system, and then rebuilding the floor. 

At this point, you may be thinking the install job might take a little more time and attention to detail than originally thought. That’s ok. The team at Superior has the experience and expertise to install foundation drainage systems correctly and 

What are the required materials for proper foundation drainage?

Different drainage solutions can require different materials. There are many questions that need to be answered. What is the preferred placement of stone around foundation drainage? What kinds of stone can I use? Where can I get stone? What kind of pipe or tile is required? 

Acquiring the correct materials will help inform you of how to install a foundation drainage system. For a basic french drain, you’ll need perforated pipe, a geotextile cloth/cover such as a permeable mesh sock, and gravel. Not sure what those materials are or where to find them? Let’s break them down.

• Perforated Pipe: A perforated pipe is simply a plastic pipe, such as corrugated drain tile, with small exterior perforations that help collect and redirect water in the soil.
• Geotextile cloth/cover: Geotextiles are permeable mesh fabrics which, when used in the soil as part of a foundation drainage system, have the ability to separate, filter, reinforce, protect, or drain. They help to filter soil and prevent the perforated pipe from clogging with dirt over time.
• Proper backfill material: There are several varieties of proper backfill materials that are used in different scenarios. When installing a basic french drain, you’ll need to use pea stone or washed gravel to cover the pipe and fill in the trench. Superior provides and installs a variety of backfill media. Our stone slinger trucks easily install peastone without any heavy lifting or ruining your landscaping.
• Extras: Tools for excavating, hammer, stakes, string, line level, tamper, tape measure, rake

Before buying materials, find out which kind of drain pipe is best suited for the job. We break down several of the options and descriptions of other related terms here in our glossary.

How to install a Perforated Drainage Pipe

Step 1: Dig the trench

Prior to doing any digging, you’ll have to prepare your property. First, call your utility companies and have them mark where your utility lines are buried to make sure you don’t hit them while digging.

Next, make sure that the trench will use elevation properly to direct water away from the structure. Once you’ve prepared your yard and made your plan, it’s time to start digging.

Make a trench around 2 feet wide, or twice the width of the drainage pipe. Make sure the trench is deep enough that the entire pipe lies below the frost line.

A trench that is 6 feet deep should generally work for a regular basement. You’ll have to check local laws and regulations to make sure your trench is in compliance. If you have a large property, manually creating the trench could be a huge project. Consider renting equipment to make the job a little easier.

Step 2: Create a proper slope

Use a sledgehammer to drive stakes/markers into the soil in the trench every four feet or so. Take a string and tie it where the pipe should start. Next, run that string to the next stake and wrap it around.

Use a line level to make sure your string is level. Slide the string down half of an inch to create the slope and ensure that the water runs down the drainage pipe and away from the structure. Repeat this process until you’ve tied every stake.

Step 3: Level the soil

Using a tamper, pack the soil in the trench to create a solid base. Measure to make sure that the distance between the string and the soil in the trench is the same at every stake. Adjust the trench by adding or removing soil to create the slope.

After you’ve tamped down all of the soil in the trench, you can go ahead and remove the stake and string guides.

Step 4: Add geotextile and gravel

Geotextile should be laid to make sure that soil doesn’t clog your drainpipe and force you to redo this project in a few years due to drainage problems. Simply place the fabric along the trench. You’ll need the fabric to be wide enough to eventually wrap around the drainage pipe and gravel that will surround it. Pour a 2-inch layer of gravel onto the fabric and, using a rake, level it.

Step 5: Place the pipe

Lay the perforated drainage pipe on the gravel. Again, check the area laws and regulations. Some areas require the use of “sock tile,” or a drain pipe that is covered in permeable mesh. This mesh acts as a second barrier to prevent the pipe from clogging with dirt.

Step 6: Finish

After you’ve placed your drainage pipe, you’ll need to cover it with a second layer of gravel. Place enough to bury the pipe 4 to 6 inches deep. Use the geotextile you placed in Step 4 to wrap the pipe and gravel. Cover the wrapped pipe with a few inches of dirt to hold the fabric in place.

Finish filling the trench and replacing any affected landscaping.

Finding a professional team to help:

As you can see, placing an exterior drainage system is a challenging task to tackle on your own. On top of that, if done incorrectly, your insurance company may not cover any damages, and you could be in violation of local laws and regulations.

Secure the safety of your home and landscaping by using a professional team that can get the job done right the first time. Superior’s team of experts can make sure your home or building is protected from foundation drainage.

Have more questions about how to find the right drainage solution for your property? Get in touch with us and we can help.

The post How To Install A Foundation Drainage System (DIY) appeared first on Superior Groundcover.

Consequently, these types of damage lead to irreversible and dangerous problems for the building and property. Because damages of this nature are somewhat avoidable, they likely won’t be covered by insurance. Luckily, drainage systems exist to protect buildings from moisture!

Interior vs Exterior Foundation Drainage Solutions

How do exterior foundation drainage systems work?

Foundation drains are buried underground and therefore, not visible. They’re constructed of perforated 4-inch plastic, PVC or flexible ABS pipe. The pipe is positioned to run along the perimeter of the house or building. This pipe is referred to as “Drain Tile.”

A foundation drain works by attracting water in the soil around the property from rain, melting snow, or rising groundwater. Once collected, the water is carried away from the structure which prevents flooding and most importantly, residual water damage.

Conditions vary from site to site and require varied materials. There are different variations of drain tile like sock tile for example. A sock tile is a drain tile covered by a permeable mesh, called a “sock”. The sock acts as a filter that helps prevent dirt from entering or clogging drain pipe.

Differences between interior and exterior foundation drainage systems:

Interior drainage systems like foundation waterproofing and damp proofing are a longer-lasting alternative to exterior drainage systems. For instance, exterior drainage systems can clog with dirt and become ineffective over time. They are also incredibly difficult to access should an issue arise. This is primarily due to their location, usually placed beneath landscaping, decks, or other obstacles.

Other hazards like buried gas or water lines, sewage, or electrical wiring can make repair difficult.  Excavating damaged exterior drainage systems can also be dangerous. In other words, it helps to hire a professional when working with exterior drainage systems.

Interior drainage systems are alternatively much safer and more convenient to access. They are located directly on top of the footing around the perimeter of your basement. This area is the “clear water zone.”

These systems don’t require any trenches to be dug in the yard as exterior drainage systems do. Instead, a drain pipe is installed and covered with gravel at the bottom of the wall and filled with cement.

Interior drainage systems work by collecting water from where the floor and wall meet. Subsequently, they also collect water from the walls themselves. This prevents it from draining to the center of the basement floor where it could pool and cause lasting damage. Interior drains work with Sump Pumps (defined below) to effectively keep basements dry and protected from damage.

What Are The Different Types of Drainage Systems?

French Drains, Foundation Drains, Perimeter Drains

A French Drain is another name for a Foundation or Perimeter Drain. The French Drain gets its name from its inventor, Henry French, who popularized the method in the 1800s.

As described above, a French Drain is a perforated plastic pipe, buried underground. It effectively collects and relocates water to avoid foundation damage.

Footing Drains

A Footing Drain is an exterior foundation drainage system outside the foundation wall. Footing drains exist in both commercial and residential buildings.  The drain itself is covered with gravel which allows the water to seep into the tile. The Footing Drain diverts water to a catch basin, which then is pumped to a storm drain.

Sump Pits and Pumps

A Sump Pit is a hole in the basement or crawlspace of a house or commercial building.

A Sump Pump sits inside of the Sump Pit.

Water enters the Sump Pit and triggers a sensor that activates the Sump Pump, turning it on. The Sump Pump then moves water away from the structure through pipes. It runs through electricity or sometimes even battery power.

Why is Foundation Drainage Important?

Water damage can range from cosmetic to catastrophic — and some of it might not be covered by insurance.

Noticing water spots or mold in and around your basement? That could be a sign of something more dangerous for the structure of your property.

For instance, without proper foundation drainage around basement walls, water can saturate the soil beneath a building or home. 

As a result, the ground will shift. This movement can cause foundation cracks. Think of when changes in weather cause roads to crack. After that, the shifting can lead to stress in other areas of the building as it “settles” and appear as cracks in walls or ceilings.

Moisture can easily penetrate further into the property when there is structural damage, making mold more likely and invasive. Mold can potentially be dangerous to your health if it goes unnoticed for too long. This CDC article on mold and dampness explains the ramifications of prolonged mold exposure. 

What are the Advantages of Foundation Drainage?

In addition to protecting your property from dangerous and irreversible structural damage, drainage systems can also help with soil care. They can prevent erosion, standing water, and other landscaping issues.

Rainwater can displace soil from your yard. Therefore, the erosion can result in a lack of soil depth, and ruin your landscaping. It can also pool, creating standing water. As a result, the standing water drowns plants and other landscaping.

What are the Disadvantages of Foundation Drainage?

A foundation drainage system is a necessary part of protecting the structural integrity of any home or building. There are advantages and disadvantages to each method. Interior drainage systems can be easier and safer to install and maintain over time.

Different types of soil or clay on the property can affect the foundation and drainage systems. Clay, for example, is a very expansive material, making it tough to deal with. As it expands and contracts with moisture and temperature change, foundation shifting can occur and lead to cracking. To have a long-term foundation drainage solution work, soil types must be considered.

You can avoid possible disadvantages and issues with foundation drainage systems by working with a professional team on your project. The pros can gauge which drainage method will work best for your property. They can also help ensure whichever system is chosen will last and require the least amount of maintenance.

Installing Foundation Drainage systems without a professional is difficult. Similarly, it can also be time-consuming and could even exempt you from insurance coverage should the system fail.

Professional Installation of Foundation Drainage Systems

It can be tough to find the right professional team for the job. Superior Groundcover has years of experience installing both residential and commercial foundation drainage systems across the Midwest.

Superior’s drain tile installation crew makes quick work of the install. We have experience installing sock tile, perforated tile, solid tile, and sump pumps for residential and commercial foundations. Our stone slinger trucks are used for placing peastone up to 70′ from the truck. We can get material in the toughest to reach areas. 

Our blower truck fleet offers our clients an additional solution for installing peastone under homes, already framed in. Our blower truck installation service is the perfect solution for pea stone placement in limited access areas.

Superior also provides foundation waterproofing and damp proofing service which is unmatched in the industry.

Have Questions?

Have more questions for the professional team at Superior? Ready to start your Foundation Drainage project? Contact us.

Read more about our Foundation Drainage Services.

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