How to Backfill a Fiberglass Pool

While the pool will be fun once it is complete, backfilling a fiberglass pool can be hard work. You’ll need to fill in just the right amount of material to support the pool without putting in too much (or the wrong kind) since that could damage the pool over time. 

One of the best ways to backfill a fiberglass pool is to use a professional installer. Instead of using wheelbarrows and shovels, a professional material placement team can use blower and slinger trucks to quickly and efficiently place the exact right amount of material exactly where it needs to go.

Sand vs. Gravel: What Do You Backfill a Pool With?

When backfilling a fiberglass pool, you have two main options: sand and gravel. Dirt is not a good choice to backfill a fiberglass pool because it can take weeks or even months to fully settle. It also doesn’t pack well, and it can shift and form gaps in the soil, which can harm the structure of the pool. On the other hand, dirt can be a good choice for backfilling the area after the pool has been removed.

Gravel is a popular choice for backfilling fiberglass pools because it is a stable material that is unlikely to shift over time like dirt. It also does not retain and react to water in the same way as sand. However, and it will depend on the job, gravel can be a more expensive material.

Sand is the other common choice because it does not leave any open space in the same way as gravel. If installed correctly, sand can compact quickly, and a mixture of concrete will also prevent it from settling over time. With sand, there can be the possibility that it will retain water and push into the pool walls, which can cause them to bulge.

Our Pool Backfill Services

While backfilling a fiberglass pool can be a DIY project, it isn’t recommended if you don’t have experience. It can be complex, time-consuming, and particularly costly if something goes wrong. Problems with drainage and settling are hard to detect at first, but they can lead to major headaches further down the line.

Superior Groundcover has a fleet of slinger and blower trucks that can backfill a fiberglass pool in just a few hours. Our professional team has extensive experience in material placement for pools and can place the right amount of material to secure and protect your pool for years to come.

How Much Does it Cost to Backfill a Pool?

The cost to backfill a pool will depend on several factors, including the material used and the size of the area that needs to be filled. It will also vary depending on if the delivery will also include the placement of the material. The staff at Superior Groundcover would be happy to give you a quote based on the needs of your project.

Pool Removal Backfilling Services

If maintaining your pool has become more trouble than it’s worth, or you want to clear out your yard for something else, you’ll need to refill the area. Superior Groundcover can also help with backfilling a fiberglass pool area after it has been removed. We can fill the space with dirt and then hydroseed the area to promote the growth of healthy new grass within just a few weeks.

Why Choose Superior Groundcover?

Superior Groundcover has more than 20 years of experience serving West Michigan and the greater region. We have one of the largest blower truck fleets in the country and have expanded our services to Indiana and Ohio. We provide a wide range of services to both commercial and municipal projects.

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So what do you do when you want to remove your inground pool? Backfilling a pool is an effective and straightforward process that will give you back your yard!

Backfilling is not just for removing a pool. Did you know that when a new pool is being installed, extra excavation is required to allow the builder room to access and install the plumbing? Once this process is completed, the extra width must be backfilled.

What is backfilling a pool?

Backfill: to refill a previously excavated area with material.

Backfilling a pool is the process of filling the empty space left by the inground pool with gravel, sand, or dirt. Backfilling is just one part of the pool removal process. The concrete floor and walls of the pool must be broken up and/or removed prior to backfilling.

Backfilling costs vary based on the size of the pool and the material used. According to HomeAdvisor, “The average price to remove a swimming pool falls between $3,000 and $10,000. The cost to eliminate an above ground model averages $2,700. An inground unit can be extracted for $9,000 to $19,000 or filled in for about $5,000.” 

There are different types of materials that can be used for backfilling a pool such as dirt, sand and gravel. We will describe each type of fill material in the process section of this article. We will also walk you through how to fill in an inground pool and how to DIY backfill a pool.

Why do pools need backfill?

During pool construction, the builder needs to excavate more than just the pool area. This allows space for the plumbing work to be done. Afterwards, the extra space around the pool needs to be backfilled.

Additionally, when removing a pool, backfill is required. Backfilling a swimming pool allows the excavated area where the pool was to be returned to a normal yard.

What is the process of backfilling a pool?

The process of removing a pool will differ based on the type of pool, the goals of the project, the budget, and other factors. There are two main goals that can be accomplished by backfilling: pool installation and pool removal.

Pool Installation Backfill Process

When installing a new pool, builders must dig extra space around the pool area to allow plumbing to be installed. After this is done, the extra space needs to be filled again. This is when backfilling for pool installation occurs. This is a smooth part of the installation process and will be carried out by the builder and/or a trusted vendor like Superior Groundcover.

Pool Removal Backfill Processes

Backfilling an inground pool is more cost-effective than removing the pool entirely. Pool removal is often overseen by a licensed engineer. Using a licensed engineer provides a few benefits to home-owners. If an engineer oversees the process, the area is considered suitable for new structures and the previous pool does not need to be disclosed to potential buyers. However, if an engineer is not involved, homeowners cannot build new structures in the area and must disclose the pool’s existence to new buyers. If the pool is not fully removed, in some cases, it must also be disclosed. Check your local regulations before making any decisions.

How to fill in an inground swimming pool:

1. Power off the pool by disconnecting the breaker box
2. Drain the pool
3. Drill holes at the bottom of the pool to prevent water collection.
4. Demolish side walls. The top of the side walls should be demolished, while the bottom portions can remain. This allows the top of the filled in area to be flat.
5. Backfill and compact. After backfilling, compaction is required to prevent the area from becoming a sinkhole.
6. Finish with soil & sod.

As an alternative to backfill, you can remove the pool completely. This is much more expensive, but allows the pool materials to be hauled off versus remaining buried.

What is the best backfill material?

Backfilling can be  done with sand, dirt, or gravel. Consider the goals of the project and the budget when choosing a fill material.

The backfill materials we normally use at Superior Groundcover are class 2 fill sand and pea stone. Pea stone is the best fill material because it’s self-compacting. Other fill materials require more labor for proper compaction which adds to the labor cost. Even if sand or dirt is properly compacted, it continues to settle over time, which can result in future damage. The movement can create a void under the cement pad. The same occurs when a lawn is installed on top of this material.

Sand

Sand can be used for backfilling the area around a pool during installation. Sand can be mixed with concrete to prevent settling. Occasionally, sand can retain water and push against the pool walls, causing them to bulge.

Dirt

Dirt should not be used to backfill during pool installation. While it’s affordable, it takes a long time to settle — from weeks to even months to fully compact. This causes a gap to form under the surface. Dirt is granular, meaning that it can shift and won’t pack well. This makes for an unstable foundation. Saving on installation by using dirt will only cost you in the long run.

Dirt is a suitable material for pool removal backfilling, however. Dirt backfill is really a mixture of dirt, tailings, and topsoil. The ratio of this mixture should be 80% dirt and tailings, and 20% topsoil for use on the surface.

Gravel

Gravel is very different from sand or dirt because it’s made of stone. Stone provides benefits like instant compaction and more efficient drainage. 

Gravel settles immediately when poured. It’s still important to use a compactor to level the surface of the gravel and fill in any remaining gaps. Gravel allows for efficient drainage because it doesn’t absorb water. Instead, the water is able to drain through the stone. This drainage helps ensure that the pool walls will not bulge.

Can I DIY backfill?

If you are a DIY-pro, familiar with operating an excavator, and have some extra time, DIY backfill is an option. Remember, if an engineer is not involved, you will not be able to build any new structures on the filled area. Also, you will need to disclose that a pool used to be there, which could negatively impact your home value.

How to DIY backfill a swimming pool:

If you decide you want to DIY backfill your pool, start by renting the proper equipment. You will need an excavator with rubber tracks. This is key because an excavator with metal tracks will destroy your lawn. Try to find an affordable machine with a quarter — half yard bucket as well as a blade (to help when grading). Typically, a pool backfill requires a machine between five and ten tons. A skilled person will be able to finish the project within a few days. 

Once you pick out your machine, have the material delivered prior to renting/picking up the excavator. Occasionally, material deliveries can be delayed. If this happens, you’ll rack up charges per day on the rental. 

In order to order the right amount of backfill material, you’ll need to do some calculations. Measure the pool volume in cubic yards by measuring the length, width, and depth in feet. Next, multiply these numbers and divide the result by 27 (the number of cubic feet in one yard). 

Now that you’ve determined the pool’s volume, you can order your backfill material. This will be costly. Research which material will work best for your area and fits into your budget. When your material is delivered, ask for it to be dumped near the pool to reduce the amount of moving you will have to do. 

Next, it’s time to break up the walls and floor of the pool. It’s important to break up (or drill holes) into the bottom of your pool to allow drainage. Depending on the material of the pool, you can break it up using your excavator. If your pool is made of gunite, you will need to rent additional equipment (like a hydraulic breaker) in order to break it up. Next, tear down at least the tops of the pool walls. It’s best to remove these materials and avoid burying them. 

CAUTION: be very careful around the pool while using the excavator. If you fall into the pool while in the machine, you could be seriously or fatally injured.

After breaking up the sides and bottom of the pool, you’re ready to backfill. Use the blade on the excavator to help push dirt into the hole. You can use the tracks to start to compact the dirt once you are able to use the excavator in the hole. Try to compact the fill as much as possible.

When the hole is almost full, use the machine to compact the soil. Next, use three to six inches of topsoil. This should be sufficient to establish a new lawn. Use the blade to grade the surface prior to spreading the topsoil. 

After laying the topsoil, you can begin planting your yard. If you want to learn more about grass seed and sod for establishing a new lawn, you can read an article of ours on this topic.

If this process seems a bit complicated, dangerous, or time-consuming, you should consider hiring professionals. If this process is done incorrectly, it could cause serious problems with drainage, settling, etc.

Superior Groundcover uses stone slinger trucks in order to efficiently backfill without damaging lawns.

Questions? Please send us a message.

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Don’t fly by the seat of your plants…

Just like it took you some time and research to come up with your prize-winning chili recipe, creating the perfect lawn will require a bit of work. There are two popular methods of lawn establishment: Sod (pre-grown grass) and Seed. 

We’ll walk you through some of the pros and cons of each and help you decide which method works best for you. 

After that, we’ll break down how to DIY sod or DIY hydroseed your yard and have you well on your way to being the proud owner of the best lawn on the block before summer hits.

What does sodding a yard mean?

Sodding your yard means that instead of establishing your lawn from seeds, you have transplanted a bed of already-grown grass. The transplanted bed of grass includes a thin layer of soil and roots. Once planted in the new location, the roots take hold.

What are the benefits of sodding your yard?

As you can guess, placing already established grass is a faster process than planting from scratch, but sod does offer some other benefits.

1. Immediate Gratification: your lawn will be looking beautiful immediately after installation.
2. Ready to use: a sodded lawn is ready for normal use and foot traffic within just a few weeks.
3. Flexible: sod is less dependent on the season. As long as there is not extreme heat/cold, you can sod your lawn anytime of the year.
4. Quick Erosion Control: sod is useful for erosion control right away.
5. Less Weeds: sod is grown in a controlled environment, eliminating weeds.

While sod offers a lot of benefits — mainly efficiency — it also has its flaws, so before you get rolling, read on.

What are the cons of sodding your yard?

1. Material Cost: getting a premium lawn established in a matter of hours does not come cheaply. Sod has a much higher price tag than grass seed.
2. Installation Cost: materials are not the only expense when it comes to sod. You’ll also have to pay the pros to make sure it gets done right.
3. Growing requirements: sod is also somewhat picky about where it establishes roots. If your yard is shady, your sod might throw shade right back, and fail to take root. 
4. Limited Options: there are limited options of grass types available with sod. You will have to do some looking for available sod that fits the requirements of your property.

What is Hydroseeding?

If after reading those cons you’ve decided you have a need for seed, we’ve got you covered. Hydroseeding is an excellent alternative to sod. While you might have to get your hands dirty, your affordable, beautiful lawn will be worth it. 

When you start with seeds, you can control each step of the grass growing process. Sound like too much work? Don’t worry, the Superior team is here for you. We can ensure your hydroseeding process is done right from step one to your first barbeque in your lovely backyard.

We have a full article on Hydroseeding 101.

Here’s a snippet:

“Simply, it’s an efficient, high quality, and inexpensive method of seeding a lawn. Technically, it’s the process of combining a mixture called a “slurry” (seed, mulch, fertilizer, soil amendments, and water) in a Hydroseeder tank, and then applying that mixture to the intended surface using high pressure. The hydroseeder keeps the slurry evenly mixed.”

You can also watch our Hydroseeding 101 video.

What are the benefits of Hydroseeding?

1. Material Cost: it’s much more affordable to hydroseed your lawn instead of sodding. 
2. Installation Cost: whether you choose to DIY or hire a professional team, the cost of labor is typically less than the cost of labor for sodding.
3. More Options: you can get pretty specific about the slurry you use on your lawn, ensuring that your seed is well-suited to grow in the light and soil environment of your yard. 
4. Consistent Growth: because your lawn has started to grow in one place and is left to grow uninterrupted (vs sod’s relocation) steady and consistent growth helps create deep, strong root systems leading to long-term health.

Which is better, hydroseeding or sodding?

Both sod and hydroseed are great options for establishing your lawn. The decision really comes down to two factors: time and money. If you want to save and are willing to wait a bit longer, hydroseeding is a no brainer. If you’re in a hurry and don’t mind paying a bit more, sod might be better for you.

Which has better cost?

Hydroseeding is much less expensive than installing sod. 

According to HomeAdvisor: 

“Hydroseeding costs an average of $1,000 for a 5,000-10,000 square foot lawn, though homeowners could pay anywhere from $500 to $4,000 depending on the size of their yard and quality of the mix. This is not a cost-effective DIY project due to the cost of purchasing or renting the specialty hose and spraying machine needed.”

On average the cost of materials to hydroseed is between $100 and $500 and labor costs between $400 and $1,300. The average total hydroseeding cost is around $850. In contrast, sod costs between $170 and $380 with installation costs ranging from $1,000 to $2,500. The average cost of sodding is around $1,800.

You can get a hydroseed quote from our team easily.

How to DIY grass sod

Step 1

Select the sod best-suited for your property. Make sure to take into consideration the amount of light, temperature, and moisture.

Step 2

Measure the area. You will need to measure out the area you’d like to sod. Multiply the length and width of the area to get the needed square footage of product. Keep in mind the area covered by driveways, sidewalks, and buildings.

Step 3

To begin preparing the site, first you will need to grade the area. Grading is necessary to ensure that the yard slopes away from buildings. This prevents drainage issues. To grade the area, first remove any plants, twigs, rocks, etc. Next, till the soil to 4 — 6 inches deep. Then smooth the soil and check again for any vegetation or other remnants.

Optionally, conduct a soil test to measure the pH of the soil and understand what amendments may be required.

After tilling, water the area pretty heavily. Watch for puddles in lower areas. If pooling occurs, add more soil or grade the area to prevent low areas. 

Next, add in fertilizer and other amendments based on soil type.

Step 4 

Now it’s time to schedule your sod delivery. It’s important to install the sod right after it’s delivered. 

Step 5

You are ready to install the sod. Start by watering the soil. Next, lay the sod. If it’s hot outside, keep your sod in the shade until you install it to prevent it from dying.

Start by laying the longest, straight line. This could be along a driveway or sidewalk. Make sure to lay pieces very close together and stretch them if necessary. Make sure not to leave any gaps or overlap. Use a knife to trim excess sod. 

When sodding slopes, lay the sod perpendicularly to the slope. After you have installed the sod, tamp down the whole area to get rid of air underneath the sod.

Step 6

After installation, make sure to water the new lawn within 30 minutes. Continue to water the lawn at least once per day for at least two weeks. This will help your lawn build stronger root systems. After the lawn has rooted, water less frequently for longer periods. Keep an eye on the weather as rain will affect the amount of watering you need to do. 

Step 7

Once your lawn is fully rooted and cannot be displaced by a lawn mower, it’s time to mow. 

As you can see, DIY sod installation is no walk in the park. It takes research, time, and physical effort; and, if done incorrectly, will lead to a failed lawn. If you do decide sod is the way to go, make sure you know what you’re in for, or consult a professional team.

How to DIY Hydroseed

Ready to get growin’? Hydroseeding can be done DIY,  but is just as tough — if not tougher — than installing sod DIY. This is because there is specific equipment required. You can make the equipment yourself, but that is another added cost and added time on your part. 

Step 1

First, check your local hardware store. They may carry a DIY hydroseeding kit that includes a seed mixture as well as an easy-spray canister. If not, you can make your own.

Your hydroseeding equipment will need to include a holding tank and a pump (you could use a hose) that can spray your mixture. There are some ideas for building your own sprayer on Pinterest. Keep in mind that DIY sprayers are not as efficient as professional equipment.

If homemade just isn’t cutting it, you can check if any local stores offer rentals. Typically sprayers rent for around $300/day.

Step 2

Hydroseeding works because of the mixture of ingredients including grass seeds, mulch, fertilizer, soil amendments, and water. Each component differs based on your climate and your site composition. Different types of grass seed perform better in shade versus light, etc. You will need to do some research to make sure you’re selecting the right type of seed and the right type of mulch. You will also need to do a soil test to determine which amendments might be required. 

In the Midwest, Kentucky Bluegrass is a popular seed choice. For more guidance on this, check out Michigan State University’s guide to hydroseeding in the Michigan climate.

Step 3

Proper soil and grading are necessary for premium turf establishment. Superior’s crew creates perfect growing environments each day using our state of the art equipment.

Step 4

Spray your mixture.

Step 5

Keep the new lawn constantly wet for the next few weeks. Installing in the spring can help with this cost because of frequent rain. Prior to hydroseeding, keep an eye on the weather. Hydroseed can be washed away if there is too much precipitation.

Start Your Project

Does it seem like a lot to do on your own? Don’t worry. The Superior Groundcover team has you — er, your exposed soil — covered! Our expert hydroseeding team has the right mixture and equipment to take care of your lawn, so all you need to do is relax on the porch with a drink and watch your lawn blossom into the best one on the block. Sound better than sweating over it yourself? Call us at (616) 669-7479.

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While you can start the hydroseeding process in different seasons, there are ideal conditions that allow for quicker growth and require less water. Don’t wait too long, or your backyard barbeques will be at stake.

When is the best time to hydroseed?

In Michigan, both fall and spring are great times to hydroseed your lawn. Hydroseeding in spring is beneficial because of the moderate temperatures.  Late summer/early fall is optimal, as the temperatures continue to fall and the precipitation increases.  The spring and fall allow for faster growth than in cold and hot seasons, but won’t require as much water as a lawn that began in the drier summer season.

The ideal temperature for the first 6 weeks after hydroseeding is between 65 and 75 degrees. Temperatures that fall too far outside this window can be harsh and lead to different issues.

The hydroseeding timeline does depend on the weather, but typically, hydroseeded lawns will begin to sprout in 5-7 days. For the next several weeks, they require more care than a regular lawn.

Can you hydroseed over an existing lawn?

We do not recommend hydroseeding over an existing lawn. 

The best practice is to either start over from scratch by completely redoing the lawn, or implement a process called “overseeding.” Overseeding is done with a power rake (you can rent one from a hardware store) and then broadcasting seed. Press the seed into the loosened soil with a leaf rake, and add starter fertilizer and water.

Do you need topsoil for hydroseeding?

A properly prepared site will make a huge difference to the resulting lawn. This includes topsoil. Most builders put down topsoil, but it is the topsoil that was scraped off the housing plot, and returned to the yard areas once the house is built.  This may or may not be quality topsoil.  

If your site has no topsoil, we recommend adding up to 4 inches of quality topsoil. We use a loamy topsoil mix. This soil will help provide nutrients to the lawn. If you are unsure of the quality of your soil, a soil test can give you an idea of the nutrients in the soil as well as the pH level. These results will give you an idea of what needs to be corrected including acidity and alkalinity. You can also add soil amendments and adjust fertility.

Can I hydroseed my own lawn?

Hydroseeding is an affordable and fairly simple way to install a lawn,but involves a lot of work and can be a complicated process. 

We have a step-by-step guide to DIY hydroseeding here, but we’ll cover some must-do’s and don’ts here.

DO conduct a soil test.  Skipping a soil test is like skipping breakfast. While it seems like you can do without, it’s incredibly important to the health of your lawn! Soil tests can reveal pH issues that often happen on construction sites.

DO your homework. Hydroseeding “slurries” are made up of different combinations of seed, mulch, fertilizer, soil amendments, and water. These mixtures vary based on climates. What works on one building site may not work for yours. Make sure you are choosing the right mixture for the job.

DON’T wait too long. Starting your hydroseeding project at the wrong time can cause a lot of issues. Harsher temperatures (both cold and hot) can cause your seeds to fail to germinate. We recommend hydroseeding in either spring or fall in Michigan due to milder temperatures and precipitation levels.

DON’T skip watering. For the first few weeks, your new lawn will require more water than a regular lawn. It should be constantly wet for at least a few weeks. 

How do I prepare my lawn for hydroseeding?

If you are having a professional team take care of your lawn for you, you just need to tell us when to show up. If you decide to try to tackle it yourself, there’s quite a bit of preparation required.

Hydroseeding often fails because of poor preparation and soil environment. On construction sites, the soil can become extremely compacted. When this happens, it becomes difficult for water, air, and roots to break through. 

To really secure your lawn and ensure its health, you should either loosen, or amend your soil. To amend soil, you will need to till soil amendments (such as decomposed organic matter like fertile compost or  peat moss) into your soil. 

If your soil is too rocky/impenetrable you can try the topsoil method, but add at least four inches of soil to allow for deeper roots.

Site Preparation

Taking the steps to properly prepare the site will help your new grass grow deep roots. This will ensure your lawn stays beautiful and healthy through dry summers and wet winters.

Step 1: Kill off any existing vegetation by using a herbicide.

Step 2: Do a soil test. If necessary, purchase materials in order to correct soil pH.

Step 3: Grade the area in order to avoid drainage issues. We have an article on DIY foundation drainage systems here.

Step 4: Remove any debris like stumps, rocks, twigs, etc from the site.

Step 5: Till the area. Make sure to till at least 2 inches deep, and add any soil amendments or extra topsoil as necessary.

Step 6: Finish grade and rake the surface, maintaining a loose ¼” top layer of soil for the seed to contact.

Time to hydroseed! The site should be ready.

Hydroseeding Maintenance

After planting, your lawn will need a little extra TLC in order to blossom into the envy of the neighborhood.

How often should hydroseed be watered?

While newly hydroseeded lawns do require extra water, you don’t want to break out the sprinklers right away! The mulch needs to dry fully before watering. This typically takes about a day, allowing the tackifier in the mulch to set up. After the mulch has had a chance to dry, you’ll want to begin your watering routine.  

In the first few weeks, you’ll need to keep the lawn constantly wet. The moisture will help your new lawn germinate. A good method is to water each section for 10-15 minutes a two to three times per day. If you are experiencing run-off issues, you can reduce your watering time. 

Keep an eye on the weather. If there is rain predicted, avoid watering. Temperature should affect your watering schedule too. If the temperature exceeds 85 degrees and there is humidity, avoid watering after 3PM. High temperatures can damage your lawn and lead to fungus. In the shadier areas of your lawn, give the mulch time to dry before watering again. 

After your first mowing, you can start to water less often, but water for longer intervals than before. This helps the lawn establish deeper, stronger roots. 

A general rule of thumb is to give your lawn 1-2 inches of water per week.

How long do you have to stay off of hydroseed?

Allow the mulch to completely dry before walking on it at all. Then, avoid walking on your lawn unless necessary until after you are able to mow the first time.

Does hydroseed wash away in rainy seasons?

Unfortunately, hydroseed is not exempt from soil erosion. While the new seeds need to be constantly watered for the first few weeks after planting, heavy rain can cause issues.

If heavy rains fall before your seeds have a chance to grow roots, they can be easily displaced. Proper site preparation can help mitigate this issue since it will speed up germination and help form deeper roots. 

If your seeds are displaced due to heavy rains, you may need to reseed portions of the lawn. Make sure to follow with proper maintenance to create an even, beautiful lawn.

If your area is experiencing heavy rain consistently, your lawn may grow unevenly. Proper maintenance can help the lawn fill out evenly eventually. If your lawn is not coming in evenly, you may need to reseed areas again.

Soil erosion can be mitigated by utilizing either straw erosion blankets. They can endure intense water runoff, all the while keeping your hydroseed in its proper place. We recommend placing these blankets in swales, ditches, slopes, and large hills.

How long does it take hydroseed grass to grow?

Depending on the climate, watering, and seed mixture, hydroseed lawns typically begin to sprout within 5-7 days. If you continue with proper maintenance (starter fertilizer applied 3 times every 3-4 weeks) and don’t experience any extreme weather conditions, your lawn will reach 3 inches long within a month. This is when you can mow for the first time.

Overall, hydroseeding is a great, affordable lawn solution. While it does require quite a bit of legwork if you intend to DIY hydroseed, the end result will be worth it. If the process seems complicated, it is. Hiring a professional team is always the best way to ensure your lawn takes the first time and will last. Superior Groundcover provides hydroseeding service as well as services that accompany new lawn installations, such as foundation drainage. Call our expert team today to start working on your dream backyard for this summer.

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